Cenotes

Cenotes may technically be considered 'sinkholes', but the ones found here differ considerably from what we generally envision when we think of a 'sinkhole'.

The Yucatan peninsula has only a few lakes and rivers... above ground level. Below ground, however, this peninsula is covered with limestone 'shelf', when a portion of earth above the river/lake does collapses, it tends to stay that way. (as opposed to sand caving into an empty cavern). The cenotes here are dated in geological time (Not as a TV news clip about what happened with the most recent story). Understand this is crystal clear water (often at places totally dry at ground level) and it's easy to understand how the original inhabitants of this land would make their first settlements near a cenote.

Not only does it provide fresh drinking water for the people, but also for the indigenous wildlife... which is where easier hunting comes in. The vast majority of the Yucatan is parched for most of the year, so it can't be overstated how important the cenotes were to the original inhabitants. It is worth nothing that all the (well known and secret) sites associated with the Maya are located where cenotes exist. It seems the bigger the cenote the larger the site. No coincidence. Because these cenotes provided such an important and basic natural resource, it is only natural that the ancient Maya included these cenotes in their religious rituals.

How important a part is up for speculation though. Some archeologists believe they used to toss young virgins in to appease the fertility gods. Also the team captain of the famous ballgame. (Winner? Loser?)

Others insist that it they were clever enough to build the pyramids, come up with the concept of 'zero', and invent a calendar that to this day is accurate to within 10ths of a second... that they would surely be smart enough not to pollute their own water supply! This water supply is immense. Almost all the rain that falls on the peninsula gets naturally filtered through the limestone into this giant underground river system. All of these cenotes are connected, and their water eventually finds it's way to the sea.

There are big, well known cenotes, and small 'unknown' cenotes as well. They are everywhere. Ask the local children, when you travel, where is their favorite 'swimming hole'? There are several small cenotes right here in Playa del Carmen, and some larger ones suitable for swimming within just a few miles.

A particularly nice one is Cenote Azul, about 4 kilometers from Puerto Aventuras. Fantastic fresh water swimming of course, but it's specially a delight to cave divers because this is a principal entry point to visit many other cenotes.

BIG caution to divers - you must be cave-dive certified to dive these underground rivers. it's easy - and deadly - to get lost. There are experienced professional dive-masters here in Playa who are familiar with these cenotes and rivers and have the specialized equipment (lights, etc.) needed to dive them safely. Take advantage of their knowledge and services. You'll find many types of fish in Cenote Azul, of various shapes, colors, etc., most of which are typical river fish including Bagre and Mojarra, but also including a miniature (10 cm) version of sailfish!! The beautiful natural environment here is home to a large population of flora and fauna, including multi-colored parrots. Monkeys occasionally come to drink water here, and there are even a few Toucans who visit sometimes.

Cenote Azul has been the subject of articles in the 'New York Times', 'Miami Herald', and several other publications, yet it remains delightfully calm and serene. Often times you literally have the place to yourselves. Taxis here in Playa will take you there for just a few dollars, or you can catch the bus to Tulum and ask to be let off at Cenote Azul.

Please remember though, the natural environment here in the tropics is very fragile, and we must respect it if we want our children to be able to enjoy it as we do. Please do not go into the cenotes wearing sun tan oil or insect repellent, as it can kill the fish. Use common sense and just 'tread lightly'. You've come at the right time. There are still a lot of hidden cenotes walling to be found. Have fun!!

(Editor's Note: Those of us who live here in Playa are rather secretive about the locations of our favorite cenotes, hence the directions are rather vague. We tend to play a guessing game with each other and attempt to keep 'our' cenote undiscovered and undeveloped. Just ask around and keep your eyes open when traveling!!!)